HIKOTech Doripake Final Stage

After running a couple of times on the track I decided to finalize my basic start up tune for my Bianca chassis. First revision was to change the ackermann geometry to a more positive set-up with the lead wheel having a larger steering angle than the trailing wheel. The trailing wheel acts like an anchor point when transitioning or engaging in aggressive snaps.

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More so, changes in camber and toe were made, much of this new steering involves using the concept of less for more.

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MST recently released weight knuckles designed for most low scrub knuckles, these weigh 10g each and ad a lot forward momentum, this increases my front grip which helps increase my lead wheel’s spinning time thus preventing the front from locking up.

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Just a typical front shot, wide stance no reservations.

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A rear view, pretty stocked on how these turned out.

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Now its time for me to enjoy this thing before new projects settle in, more updates coming soon!

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Bianca has a Heart

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Everything wired up and equipped, new fresh Hobbywing V10 powerplant and a HIKOtech style Sanwa SV plus Type-D ESC.

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All Sanwa electronics and Team Tetsujin plasma cables. Wires tucked for a compact clean look. I’ll be hitting the track for a shakedown and process the information with my orthodox tune for now. Once I fine tune some of the rest and assess the information I’ll post up a set-up sheet for a basic tune up.

HIKOtech Doripake – Phase 3

Its been a while since I updated this blog, but with a new job and more responsibilities its been hard to devote more hours in RC drifting. Nonetheless, while I was away from the blogging world  I continued collecting parts so that my HIKOtech Doripake would reach the end of of its build cycle, now long overdue I have to put it together as I am exited to get out there and try it out for myself, so without wasting anymore time, lets get to it.

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From the last update I basically got the chassis finished minus some suspension and driving components. From this stage I added some studs, and a WUN brace to hold a regular lipo pack.

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I decided to equip MST’s universal diffuser which ads more flair and also acts as weight holder. I added 25 grams of extra screw on weights at this stage, this would be revised once I hit up the fine tuning stage.

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Moving along, next point of interest is knuckles, I opted for a set of TopLine MRT knuckles, which offer a good variety of KPI and Trail adjustment and additionally designed as low scrub knuckles. Having the option to fine tune the trail angle lets me chose whether I want my car to  have more forward pull or create more forward pull when counter steering.

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These knuckles came with bearings, but I decided to use RcArt’s RWD 6mm hubs, which come with a conversion flange to equip a smaller bearing same size used for WUN GX knuckles.

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For hex hubs, I will be equipping MST 5mm models as I like their build quality and mate silver anodized finish similar to TopLine’s finish.

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Full knuckle assembly using MST 4.8mm reinforced ball studs and added 3 grams of screw on weights for that extra rotational balance.

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Up next, control arms, selection here was more about aesthetic preference but I also took into account later tuning options I’d like to try. M’s Product y-arms offer a double deck hole layout for lower damper application for those wishing to run long stroke dampers which I will eventually try. They might seem bulky but with precise steering geometry they shouldn’t interfere with wheels hitting, that said it also depends on the side you chose to equip them on. These look fantastic and ad a touch of badassery compared to thinner options available out-there.

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Spacing these Y-arms to the suspension mounts, I use TN-Racing Teflon bushings, in my opinion their the best choice of bushings in the market for spacing up wheel base for the front and rear. Note, these can only be equipped with 2.5mm suspension pins.

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Since Zillion suspension mounts are extremely low they lower the droop amount considerably but not having access to lots of droop isn’t a problem for me, so this will do for now. Eventually spacing the suspension mounts can increase droop if I need so in a later revision.

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The entire steering geometry assembly offers me all the angle I need and with zero friction, revisions will be made later down the line for proper track width but this is the angle I am aiming for.

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Looking extra mean and violent here, no need for more.

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Lots of caster, for that extra counter steer surge. Note, a later revision was made prior to me writing this up with 6 degree of negative trail.

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Looks gooood.

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For my rear control arms, I chose to go a little more exotic and kept the Zillion suspension mounts happy by offering them there control arm counterparts. These are 3 piece arms, and offer track width adjustment and toe by use of spacers. These look amazing and their build quality is top notch, the cursive branding is labelled on both sides.

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Rear Knuckles are courtesy of D-Like, these are the v2 knuckles for the RE-R Hybrid II and come with aluminum lever brackets for setting up a 1:1 lever ratio suspension similar to Wrap Up Next VX arms.

IMG_1476Since these came with 2.5mm holes I tapped them using a t-wrench to 3mm spec so that I can equip any ball stud using 3mm specification.

IMG_1482Together with Zillion control arms they compliment each other and work great. Using MST reinforced ball studs to keep the tolerances right and measurements simple.

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The suspension arms are 3mm pin hinge specification so I went about using a conversion flange (2.5mm to 3.0mm) from Rc-Art to equip them on my current suspension pins (2.5mm) with adequate spacing using TN-Racing bushings.

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Full Zillion rear suspension assembly completed.

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Decided to use some drive shaft boots, this helps keep dust from entering the CVD and keeps black grease in place.

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For the drive relation bits, I am going for an RC926 spur adapter and a MST machined spur made of (instead of using Injection Molding to make a spur gear, these are machined for finer precision out of a single Delrin disk) Delrin which is an excellent material that offers good creep and limited friction. Since I want to run a heavy flywheel set-up, I’l be using the weighted adapter flywheel set from M’s Product for the spur which considerably increases rotational mass. This ads up to a total of 8.4 grams of added weight on the spur alone.

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A Grow Works Tail-Slider spur adapter cover ads to a cool raw aluminum finishing touch.

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Heavy flywheel equipped.

IMG_1502All that JDM glory, Made in Japan.

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At this point I got nothing left but to equip some dampers on this thing and the roller is finished.

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Before adding the dampers I wanted to do so with the actual weight that would be on the chassis, so I equipped my power plant pre-maturely. Yokomo Stainless Steel pinion to Delrin spur combination.

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For the dampers I kept it simple with some TRFxRC926 set I had previously used on my FXX-D S.

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Lever damper action, laid down in the rear.

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Kazama Auto adjustable caps with RC926 damper bits.

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IMG_1530Mounted low and with a slight angle for now, until a revision comes up.

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Aesthetically appealing from any side.

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For now its time to fine tune the chassis for another update and wait for the arrival of electronics. I am so pleased with how this turned out. Patience does strike good fortune and I am stoked about how the build up turned out. Now I just need to wire this thing up and drop a shakedown on its performance. That’s it for now, stay tuned for more!

HIKOtech Doripake – Phase 2

So over the past week with design work piling up and all,  I was able to find small pockets of time to work on my build. Things are looking pretty good at this point as the stock set is assembled. Now onwards to the suspension mounts and drive relation bits. IMG_0535 Since this is a special chassis, I wanted to contribute some kind of unity into it. I wanted to keep all suspension related parts in black anodized finish. Searching far and wide I came across Zillion suspension mounts which gave that extra exotic feel to the chassis. There are no Overdose suspension mounts needed at this point, plus most are out of stock anyway or stopped production for now. IMG_0537 These look great with their cursive laser etched branding matching Bianca’s and there low profile presence. Take note, these are probably the lowest suspension mounts a Doripake can have, much lower than the stock plastic ones and OD. So proper spacing may need to be required for certain lower arms. IMG_0538 For the rear, I’ve opted with the Kazama Auto’s SUSTEX branded open diff case set, this is a suburb piece of aluminum precision and chamfered edge detail goodness plus Swerv RC can vouch for its quality on his blog. IMG_0539This rear open diff case looks quite complementary to the semantics of the chassis, full cold alloy pleasure! IMG_0540Part of the fun in building a drift package is enjoying assembling the rear drive relation bits. For this build I’ve chosen to go with Kazama Auto again for their steel gear FCD 1.25 set (17T/32T) and steel outdrive spool. This will greatly increase rotational mass in the rear making it slower to rev up to speed but stay in constant rev longer dividing my throttle stages even further. Take note, this conversion kit relies on the use of the front input shaft from the Yokomo Type-C, since I am running hard rolling effect I took the precautions to run the reinforced front input shaft for extra strength. IMG_0541Its quite important to keep the rear diff gears lubricated as they produce lots of heat and friction, so some petroleum based gear oil found in my local hobby shop is a good thing to use. IMG_0542 An exploded view of the steel spool set, its very important to use the right shims for longer lasting fun. IMG_0544 IMG_0553 The Bianca conversion comes with this 20T steel gear which attaches to the front input shaft of the diff case. IMG_0546 Everything in place and looking good. Note: It’s imperative to make sure to use proper shim spacers to not over tighten the mesh of the clockwork or make it to loose. The End result should be a smooth drive, with no jerking or breaks in rotation. IMG_0550 Full on Metal Gear Solid! Note: lubricating the transfer case is suggested to avoid excess friction and heat. IMG_0568 Top upper deck brace on and check! IMG_0569Next up I wanted to take advantage of the weight shift design criteria this chassis runs on for its upper deck. Wrap Up Next battery braces work like a charm for this conversion and bolt on pretty easy. The user has a choice of running both regular and shorty lipos front to back. In my case I will be running the regular length lipo pack. Take a look at all the room the bottom deck is left now with, many optional battery position holes or other applications. IMG_0574All black on black with silver accents, this chassis is gorgeous much of its top down assembly giving some reference to Constructivism. IMG_0608 Next up was installing the front aluminum silver shock tower from RC926, at this point I wanted to continue to emphasis the black and silver contrast. IMG_0610On to the rear, everything check. Stainless steel screws as always. IMG_0612 Running a top battery tray layout didn’t stop me from going for a traditional transversal battery mount layout. These Rc-Art aluminum mounts were primarily designed for the CE-RX series, but the HIKOtech doripake offers the holes available for assembly, because again this chassis runs on versatility and not taking advantage of this is a loss for the user. IMG_0620 The mounts installed at this point and pretty much looking like protruding blades from the sides, I’ve decided to run them in their shorty format as I wont be using them initially when the chassis will be ready. Instead I am keeping them as an option for running a transversal rear battery layout in the future. Plus there is plenty of room to spare in the front for electronics later. IMG_0635 Now going back to the front I am basically ready now to install these aluminum upper arms from Spice Rc. These upper arms use sturdy construction and feature an easy length adjustable turnbuckle via set screw to adjust camber settings on the fly. IMG_0637 These upper arms come with a 20mm long threaded flange, which are used to connect between the shock tower and the upper arm mounts. Note: Its important to keep track of flange lengths as this can help in avoiding stress for fitment issues. IMG_0638Since this conversion was designed in mind to fit the Yokomo Type-C upper arm pins which are 2.5mm in diameter, my Spice Rc flange wasn’t going to fit. So I taken measures to hand tap some 3mm holes in the stock upper arm brace so that I can fasten my flange on it for added support. IMG_0644 Using a 3mm set screw to equip the flange onto the upper arm brace. IMG_0646Now with spacers installed and upper arms fitted it was time to mock up the assembly to make sure it fits between the mounting holes and the front shock tower. IMG_0650Remember that 20mm long flange? Well it now fits in between the upper arm mount and shock tower, but the front shock tower needed to use a 2mm offset giving enough clearance to fit the assembly. IMG_0651To align the upper arms to the front shock tower correctly I had to raise the upper arm mount by 1.5mm to make sure everything sits levelled. Now at this point the upper arms are installed and blend quite nicely with the rest of the chassis. IMG_0653 Well this is pretty much it at this point, I still have some parts pending such as lower control arms and other bits. I am quite satisfied with this look, its definitely something I hope is unique and I can’t wait to finish up this build.

Bianca: Construction begins – Phase 1

So recently, rc drift shop specialist HIKOtech in Japan released their flagship first production run of a new RWD conversion for the Yokomo Drift Package, and as I was in the market for a new project, I jumped right into the opportunity to own one since I’ve always wanted to build from the ground up my own Doripake conversion.

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The HIkotech Bianca doripake conversion comes with some pretty unique features and the package will include the following:

  • 2.5mm carbon graphite bottom deck
  • 2.05mm carbon graphite front and rear upper deck
  • Unique aluminum rear transfer case/bulk heads
  • Aluminum front bulk head
  • Unique aluminum upper arm brace
  • Newly designed curved slide rack steering assembly
  • Single piece aluminum floating servo mount
  • 5mm thick aluminum rear motor mount
  • Two black coated bevel gears and steel shaft
  • Bearings + hardware all included

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This chassis screams versatility and symmetry, its beautiful while staying very functional, kinda has a very machine aesthetic to it. All of its aluminum parts are mate black anodized with some parts receiving special attention to detail to accentuate quality of workmanship.

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A key design intention was elevating the motor to a high center of mass, thus promoting weight shift characteristic and increasing rear body roll. This new layout resulted in the use of two steel bevel gears (20T each) to transfer power to the rear diff case. This idea brings about its second design intention, promoting more torque via a bottom transfer case.

4This is seriously a very good looking conversion, nothing was left for compromise and details such as these milled out heat sink ribs on the steering and upper arm brace to the laser etched Bianca signature on the front portion of the chassis. Definitely a feminine and appealing graphic giving reference to a certain Adventure Quest character.

5After a couple of fun hours assembling the chassis, I’ve decided I wanted to change the stock black steel screws to some stainless steel ones to give the already black chassis more contrast. The entire chassis is only 90mm wide across making it quite narrow compared to a stock Drift Package. Man oh man does this thing look good!

6Now even though this isn’t the first slide curved steering rack to hit the market, that tittle goes to StreetJam for theirs, this specific steering rack which is part of the chassis unique perks, is the first of its kind to be included in a Doripake conversion and as far as I know a signature feature on this conversion.

7The entire slide steering rack assembly sits on three bearings in a high mounted position, enabling smooth operation from left to right. This type of high mounted assembly again accentuates its high center of gravity design.

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^Right^

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^Left^

The use of a curved slide rack makes its motion behave more like steering wipers (giving a new dimension to ackermann tuning) while having the benefit of stability. This special steering system enables the trailing knuckle not being hit by the end of the rack, enabling more clearance as it slides.

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Little close up view of the transfer case/motor mount, which screams functional beauty. Interesting fact, the orientation of the motor mount can be changed from right to left, therefore changing the direction of drive. Again, promoting versatility and ease of maintenance.

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Everything sits high, functional, beautiful and versatile. This conversion features all the elements the current RWD rc drift scene is using. Is this the future of RWD rc drifting? Well, nobody can really know but if these are the kind of kits were being treated with, than the future looks bright.

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Voila! This is basically where I’m at, next up will be the installation of drive relationship and suspension components. I can’t wait to get back and work on this build, this thing is coming together very admirably and hopefully will look very special.

The Beginning Of A New RWD RC Era

New Bianca

Today marks the first official reason why I started blogging, to document my creativity in RC, and perhaps inspire others in doing the same just like I was many months ago. I’ve set myself up to building a new chassis, but this time from the ground up. Above lies one of the most anticipated Yokomo Drift Package RWD conversions since the FRD, HIKOtech’s very own RWD Doripake conversion named: Bianca. A product of many months of R&D by HIkotech who are a “Zanmai” (Luxury) contributors to the RWD rc drift scene in Kasugai, Aichi, Japan since many years now.

2015 marks them on the map from the rest. Since I’ve seen the inception of the 3D renders way back in July 2014 and being a HIkotech fan I’ve set myself to make sure to be one of the first to acquire this beautiful conversion. With only 100 units made for the first production run, the demand was high and it instantly sold out before it hit the shelves, luckily I was able to secure one weeks before.

So this starts a new adventure for me, I will be taking my time with this as I don’t believe in settling for good enough.

Stay Tuned for more,

Nobuseri

47mm KN-Kikaku hybrid spring.

I decided to get a little clever and re-use some of my extra RC926 springs and extend my current front mono-shock damper by staking three 15mm RC926 springs together. The result made a triple rate spring which made my damper longer so I could have more stiffness without changing oil plus this added a third option for tuning the damper.

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I think the results are quite clean and it gets some of my extra springs in use, surprisingly because of the added length the damper feels more stiff, yet it offers good performance (as this mod was done a few weeks ago and I just recently decided to upload it here) plus it looks quite good.

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This will be the last modification of my FXX-D as I am happy with its current performance and I am also moving on to another project this upcoming Spring time.

Orochi 3D Demon skin for my MT4S

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I wanted to pimp out my transmitter, I mean a transmitter should be the direct and foremost tool an rc drift enthusiasts needs and pimping it out to a specific style is part of the fun right? So I decided to opt for Wrap Up Next’s special 3D vinyl print technology to dress up my Sanwa MT4S. On top of that an original Team Tetsujin billet wheel to keep it JDM and matching.

Hello RC Drift world!

Well I guess its time for me to go old school. These days most people since the inception of Facebook do not want to take the time and effort to pour their soul into a blog unless they are passionate about their subject. Well, I am passionate about Rc drifting so why not blog about it, record my discoveries, my build-ups, and my set-ups. I will be announcing a new project this coming Spring season and I would like to thank my senpai’s who’s blogs and posts helped me inspire myself to do the same.

– Nobuseri