Its been a while since I updated this blog, but with a new job and more responsibilities its been hard to devote more hours in RC drifting. Nonetheless, while I was away from the blogging world I continued collecting parts so that my HIKOtech Doripake would reach the end of of its build cycle, now long overdue I have to put it together as I am exited to get out there and try it out for myself, so without wasting anymore time, lets get to it.
From the last update I basically got the chassis finished minus some suspension and driving components. From this stage I added some studs, and a WUN brace to hold a regular lipo pack.
I decided to equip MST’s universal diffuser which ads more flair and also acts as weight holder. I added 25 grams of extra screw on weights at this stage, this would be revised once I hit up the fine tuning stage.
Moving along, next point of interest is knuckles, I opted for a set of TopLine MRT knuckles, which offer a good variety of KPI and Trail adjustment and additionally designed as low scrub knuckles. Having the option to fine tune the trail angle lets me chose whether I want my car to have more forward pull or create more forward pull when counter steering.
These knuckles came with bearings, but I decided to use RcArt’s RWD 6mm hubs, which come with a conversion flange to equip a smaller bearing same size used for WUN GX knuckles.
For hex hubs, I will be equipping MST 5mm models as I like their build quality and mate silver anodized finish similar to TopLine’s finish.
Full knuckle assembly using MST 4.8mm reinforced ball studs and added 3 grams of screw on weights for that extra rotational balance.
Up next, control arms, selection here was more about aesthetic preference but I also took into account later tuning options I’d like to try. M’s Product y-arms offer a double deck hole layout for lower damper application for those wishing to run long stroke dampers which I will eventually try. They might seem bulky but with precise steering geometry they shouldn’t interfere with wheels hitting, that said it also depends on the side you chose to equip them on. These look fantastic and ad a touch of badassery compared to thinner options available out-there.
Spacing these Y-arms to the suspension mounts, I use TN-Racing Teflon bushings, in my opinion their the best choice of bushings in the market for spacing up wheel base for the front and rear. Note, these can only be equipped with 2.5mm suspension pins.
Since Zillion suspension mounts are extremely low they lower the droop amount considerably but not having access to lots of droop isn’t a problem for me, so this will do for now. Eventually spacing the suspension mounts can increase droop if I need so in a later revision.
The entire steering geometry assembly offers me all the angle I need and with zero friction, revisions will be made later down the line for proper track width but this is the angle I am aiming for.
Looking extra mean and violent here, no need for more.
Lots of caster, for that extra counter steer surge. Note, a later revision was made prior to me writing this up with 6 degree of negative trail.
For my rear control arms, I chose to go a little more exotic and kept the Zillion suspension mounts happy by offering them there control arm counterparts. These are 3 piece arms, and offer track width adjustment and toe by use of spacers. These look amazing and their build quality is top notch, the cursive branding is labelled on both sides.
Rear Knuckles are courtesy of D-Like, these are the v2 knuckles for the RE-R Hybrid II and come with aluminum lever brackets for setting up a 1:1 lever ratio suspension similar to Wrap Up Next VX arms.
Since these came with 2.5mm holes I tapped them using a t-wrench to 3mm spec so that I can equip any ball stud using 3mm specification.
Together with Zillion control arms they compliment each other and work great. Using MST reinforced ball studs to keep the tolerances right and measurements simple.
The suspension arms are 3mm pin hinge specification so I went about using a conversion flange (2.5mm to 3.0mm) from Rc-Art to equip them on my current suspension pins (2.5mm) with adequate spacing using TN-Racing bushings.
Full Zillion rear suspension assembly completed.
Decided to use some drive shaft boots, this helps keep dust from entering the CVD and keeps black grease in place.
For the drive relation bits, I am going for an RC926 spur adapter and a MST machined spur made of (instead of using Injection Molding to make a spur gear, these are machined for finer precision out of a single Delrin disk) Delrin which is an excellent material that offers good creep and limited friction. Since I want to run a heavy flywheel set-up, I’l be using the weighted adapter flywheel set from M’s Product for the spur which considerably increases rotational mass. This ads up to a total of 8.4 grams of added weight on the spur alone.
A Grow Works Tail-Slider spur adapter cover ads to a cool raw aluminum finishing touch.
Heavy flywheel equipped.
All that JDM glory, Made in Japan.
At this point I got nothing left but to equip some dampers on this thing and the roller is finished.
Before adding the dampers I wanted to do so with the actual weight that would be on the chassis, so I equipped my power plant pre-maturely. Yokomo Stainless Steel pinion to Delrin spur combination.
For the dampers I kept it simple with some TRFxRC926 set I had previously used on my FXX-D S.
Lever damper action, laid down in the rear.
Kazama Auto adjustable caps with RC926 damper bits.
Mounted low and with a slight angle for now, until a revision comes up.
Aesthetically appealing from any side.
For now its time to fine tune the chassis for another update and wait for the arrival of electronics. I am so pleased with how this turned out. Patience does strike good fortune and I am stoked about how the build up turned out. Now I just need to wire this thing up and drop a shakedown on its performance. That’s it for now, stay tuned for more!